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mcknett

Where's the bridge?

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mcknett    1

UGB,

Thanks for the idea. I'm going to have a look at the visegrip solution first (though I'm still willing to invest in a clamp or two - something tells me I could be doing this again).

I'm going to have to add a piece of maple to the bridge plate - I got my new bridge and have an issue. Have a look at the image, my Palmer giutar and Martin bridge don't seem to line up. I was going to use a Mitchel Platemate to overcome the chipping which has occured. As it is, I'm going to add a piece of hardrock maple which I picked up today on top of the bridge plate (well, on top if you are looking at it from the inside. My situation matches the bridge replacement project at frets.com (thanks, Les, for the the link) so I picked up some epoxy to attach the maple and fill the holes. My plan is to clear the loose pieces from the top, massage a piece of spruce to fit, add the new maple bridge plate then epoxy them together like a sandwich. Then I'll shave the spruce down and use the hide glue to attach it to the new spruce and original top - drill through the holes in the bridge (with another piece of maple on the bottom to cut down the splintering) and see what happens.

Am I getting a little crazy here?

2211.attach

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good gosh almighty! It would almost appear that one is set up for right hand and the other for left. Yeah, I think you're in 'plug up the top and start over' mode for sure w/that bridge. If you don't plug the old holes, the top will have zero meat after you drill the new ones. Man, I'd be tempted to keep looking for a more suitable bridge if you can find one. This is gonna add a ton of hours to your project.

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mcknett    1

I thought about looking for another bridge. This one is a Martin. I have a tusq saddle to fit it, so I'm reluctant to start over. It appears by the angle of the saddle that this one is set up right handed. considering the repair I'm already planning on, I think I'll stick with it. I'll have to drill out the bridge anyway - might as well go all the way through - it will make for a cleaner fit with the pins anyway.

Can you tell me more about the UST? I posted a seperate thread on it - looking for something to be simple in all this (I think it will be the pins - or maybe not, depends on the drill!)

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fly135    5

WRT clamping... Since the bridge has holes that line up and go through the top of the guitar, can't you just use screws and a backing plate to clamp through the existing holes? When the glue is dry remove the screws and backing plate and there is no damage to be plugged or patched. Wouldn't that work?

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mcknett    1

It's complicated by the fact that the holes don't line up. (see image above).

You know, the funny thing is...when all is said and done, I'll still think of it as my $2 thrift store guitar - no matter how much I sink into it.

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You know, the funny thing is...when all is said and done, I'll still think of it as my $2 thrift store guitar - no matter how much I sink into it.

:D

http://www.mightymite.com/e_parts/a_elec/index.html

try that for your pickup. StewMac should have some too. I'd think you might want to check to see if a 12 string requires a longer element.

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mcknett    1

Thanks for the tip, UGB. I've poked around a bit and it looks like 12 strings really are different. I can get a Martin thinline for 12 string (made by Fishman) for under $50 - but it seems a bit like overkill. Pluses are I know it will work for 12 string and fit the new bridge and saddle. I haven't pulled the trigger yet (still likely to have to buy clamps) UST and clamps will raise the project cost another $80 - it'll be the most expensive $2 guitar around!!

For those who haven't seen it yet, the project has begun - see "The $2 Twelve String Project" thread.

Thanks to everyone for the help!

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