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My BUZZ is different....: (

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I have a buzz, >sigh<... "The action on the strings looks fine to ME", she says with an inexperienced twinkle in her eye...

Problem is only on the 5th and 6th strings and only when the strings are pressed down in the 9th, 10th or 11th fret??? ~Nikki

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Yes, I actually did switched to lighter strings, except the 6th string. When looking real close you can see an ever so slight bow starting at about the 8th fret and moving through to the 12th fret, but it is so slight that I am not even SURE that it really is there... Though, you can see the string slightly touching the actual metal of the fret that it is in and the one in front of it when the string is fretted within the 9th, 10th and/ or 11th. (Does that make any sense?)

Well, I attempted to check the action as directed in the other "Buzz Post", though I don't know what "440 concert pitch" is...: ( Though with it in tune, I placed the capo, (clamp, not the strap kind) and followed the instructions, and again it seemed fine! The two cards together fit in the space with ease.

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Hey NetKnockout...

I guess you picked your handle because you are a good boxer huh? : )

Just kidding, it's nice to see another human and not just an icon in some of these posts.

I had some fret buzz problems when I switched to lighter strings. It was bugging me so much I took it into the repair shop and it turns out the action was set way too low.

Here's a good website with fretbuzz info:

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Setup/BuzzDiagnosis/buzzintro.html

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Lighter strings can cause a buzz for 2 reasons:

1. Because they require less tension to tune to pitch (btw, concert 440 is 'normal' tuning, E, A, D, G, B, E. Some people use alternate tunings and for the sake of guitar repair or tech tips, it's good that we all start at the same place, what the instrument was designed for. That's not to say that some guitars don't sound or play good, or even better, with alternate tunings but 440 is about the best reference point from which all adjustments are made.) it's possible that your headstock/trussrod is pulling back more and giving you less relief than you had before. You've checked your relief and say it's good but maybe it was a tad higher before?

2. Lighter strings, because they tune to pitch with less tension, vibrate in a larger arc requiring more clearance space from the frets to keep from buzzing.

There's 2 methods of approach I'd take here. One is to get a good straight edge, like a metal or even a plastic ruler that's only about 6 inches long or so. Place the ruler on the frets inbetween the 5th and 6th strings with the center of the ruler on the 12th fret. Now see if the ruler will rock back and forth using the 12th fret as a pivot, like a see-saw on a playground. Obviously, the movement won't be as much but you're checking to see if your 12th fret is higher than the other frets. If it is, take it in to a shop to have them level and dress it.

If the 12th fret isn't high and your action can tolerate it, I'd attempt to adjust the saddles up a bit to kill the buzzing. Well, I say that assuming it's an electric. Is this an electric?

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I know this is going to sound weird, but as I said I didn't change the 6th string, it is still a medium gage/ weight (?)... And it is the worst... Oh, and my guitar is an acoustic-electric, A Takamine G-Series...

647.attach

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I guess I missed that the 5th and 6th were still mediums. You can either put mediums back on the entire guitar or raise/shim the saddle, or better yet, get a new saddle. I'm going to guess your factory saddle is plastic and this would be a good opportunity to upgrade to bone or tusq. You'll really notice a difference in tone and volume plus you'll the lower action and lighter strings you're looking for.

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I guess I missed that the 5th and 6th were still mediums. You can either put mediums back on the entire guitar or raise/shim the saddle, or better yet, get a new saddle. I'm going to guess your factory saddle is plastic and this would be a good opportunity to upgrade to bone or tusq. You'll really notice a difference in tone and volume plus you'll the lower action and lighter strings you're looking for.

I told one of our members that and his tech said the difference in tone and volume would be minimal and it would be expensive to do. Go figure.

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that's a lazy tech. One day I got an Oscar Schmidt dreadnought in that was just dead. I first started with a new set of strings, still dead. So I took the plastic saddle off and sanded a bone saddle down to fit and that guitar came to life. Not worth the money? How much does someone charge to install a bone saddle? If she brought her guitar to me and wanted a new bone saddle and set up to play 12's at most I'd charge $40 and for that money she'd get:

Truss rod adjustment, if needed

Fingerboard cleaned and oiled, if needed

Bridge plate cleaned and oiled, if needed

Any needed fret polishing

Body cleaned

New saddle installed

New set of strings

If all I had to do was install the new saddle and put on a new set of strings it'd be closer to $25. Every guitar I've put a bone saddle in to replace the stock plastic one was a noticable improvement.

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UGB, I've had a look at the tags that I got with my Ibanez acoustic and it says that I have Ivorex II nut and saddle and Advantage bridge pins on the guitar.

Is that good?

Neil

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Neil - I can play the trumpet and clarinet, though I see the piano and the guitar in a completely different league, and I, the perfectionist whom is very hard on herself, would not claim to play the guitar nor the piano...: ) I can play an array of Christmas songs and such on the keys, though certainly not anything such as Bach, Beethoven, etc...

UGB- My father also suggested replacing the saddle with bone. I've been experimenting with alternate tunings, (as Ani DiFranco's music has been my thing lately), and my father said in doing so he felt that the strings passing through had most likely worn down the plastic...

Canuck - thank-you for the compliment, really it's sweet, though I am glad the guys are sticking to issue. I have a shop that's bigger than my house and more tools than most women have shoes and jewelry combined, I have a small farm and my Echo chainsaw, and my 1961 Oliver 500 (tractor), Olivia, are my babies, so to speak... So you see the circles that I spin in are male dominated! Being not only female, but also tiny and attractive, it's a constant struggle to be taken seriously...

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OH, while we are kind of on the subject of strings...>smiles<

I had originally purchased the lighter weight/ gage, (which is it?), strings because I was told that they would easier to play... Though, I actually don't notice any difference in the ease based on them...

So, if someone would could they please explain the advantages and disadvantages that the different strings hold, it'd be great!... Also, for the most part, I don't like the sound of the strings when my fingers slide across them, my father suggested that perhaps I try "flat wounds" (?)...Sorry, I've never had a guitar lesson, everything thus far has been self taught, so forgive me if my terminology is incorrect at times... : (

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Sry, new questions just keep popping up! When speaking of the saddle are you referring to both of them? That is I am assuming there are two...

And is replacing them something I can do myself??? I'm not faint at heart in that regard... I do just about everything for myself, I'm just not the kind to take anything into any shop. I fix my own truck, computer, plumbing etc... : )

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Sry, new questions just keep popping up! When speaking of the saddle are you referring to both of them? That is I am assuming there are two...

And is replacing them something I can do myself??? I'm not faint at heart in that regard... I do just about everything for myself, I'm just not the kind to take anything into any shop. I fix my own truck, computer, plumbing etc... : )

Take a look here NK. Should tell you all you need to know.

http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.guitarsaddles.com/images/Products/SADDLE%2520BONE%25201.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.guitarsaddles.com/products.htm&h=927&w=1531&sz=217&tbnid=zdn2Ef35ilRPZM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=150&hl=en&start=8&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbone%2Bsaddle%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN

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Hi All, thanks for the information, but honestly that is too much... : )

There is soooooooooo much to every aspect of the guitar, and as I have said I am not a "seasoned guitarist".... Too much, just overwhelms me....

So, with all due respect, can you translate it into more simplistic terms???

Just tell me which kind would be the best, I wouldn't mind spending up to $50.00.

And can I change them/it myself???

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Hi All, thanks for the information, but honestly that is too much... : )

There is soooooooooo much to every aspect of the guitar, and as I have said I am not a "seasoned guitarist".... Too much, just overwhelms me....

So, with all due respect, can you translate it into more simplistic terms???

Just tell me which kind would be the best, I wouldn't mind spending up to $50.00.

And can I change them/it myself???

I think you just want plain bone saddle. Look on their order page and choose the blank that is right for your model of guitar. If it is not listed you can send him your saddle and he will make you a custom one. You can google for changing saddles. Should be an easy search.

http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.guitarsaddles.com/images/Products/SADDLE%2520BONE%25201.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.guitarsaddles.com/products.htm&h=927&w=1531&sz=217&tbnid=zdn2Ef35ilRPZM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=150&hl=en&start=8&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbone%2Bsaddle%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN

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I forgot that Take's have that split saddle. Nikki I'd either hand it over to a tech or purchase a replacement saddle and try to get that one to fit buy sanding down the bottom. There's some threads on that here I think. The good thing with doing your mod on a replacement saddle is that if you screw it up, you still have the original saddle to put back in.

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