"fat" fingertips

skywise · #1 August 19th, 2004

I haven't picked up a guitar since I was a kid. Now that my kid has expressed his interest in learning how to play, I, too, have gotten the itch to finally learn more than the 3 chords I once strummed. Unfortunately, I've discovered that the reason I probably gave it up so long ago is that the fingertip of my middle finger is so flat and wide that it's impossible for me to keep it from touching two strings at once. So, I'm here to ask your advice on how I can overcome this. Do I invent my own method of fingering the notes? Or, does somebody produce a guitar that's "oversized"? (I know that smaller guitars, eg- 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, are made, what about a 5/4?) At any rate, a custom-built guitar is out of the question ($$$$) until I know for a fact that I'm not going to stop playing any time soon, and that means I need to learn how to play first. Suggestions?

-skywise

Spyder F16 · #2 August 19th, 2004

There are certain styles of acoustics that have a wider fretboard. I believe it may be the Classical style if im not mistaken.

skywise · #3 August 20th, 2004

Thanks for your reply, Spyder. I do have a classical acoustic guitar (with nylon strings). Comparing my measurement of the fretboard's width at the nut with online descriptions of other acoustics, I find that my guitar is right on par for this class of instrument. Meaning, I haven't come across any with a wider fretboard than the one I already have. Unfortunately, this just isn't wide enough. :cry:

-skywise

Spyder F16 · #4 August 21st, 2004

It might be the spanish guitar I was thinking of then.

You could probably call up a custom guitar maker and have them make an acoustic with a wider neck. it'll cost a bit more since it is custom, hand made, but it may be better. Also, If you can, you can try different fingering altercations to do the chords clearly, but where you can manage it.

Try to find different ways to play chords first as it is probably easier on your wallet, but if it either doesnt work, or overfrustrates you, then you can turn to the guitar shops. (If you want to pay the money)

The last thing I could think of is to make sure your fingers are perpendicular to the fretboard where only the tips of it are touching the strings, not the fingerprint part. Also it helps greatly to have short fingernails (no longer than 1/16'th of an inch of white, 1/32nd is better.)

Kirk may have something to add/Corrections if he sees this.

allthumbs · #5 February 11th, 2005

try using your middle finger for the first and sixth string.That way you can grab less string closer to the edge of your finger. Look at Kirks slide lessons for different ways to finger chords. You can play alot of chords with just one finger so you can add more where you can to fill out the sound. There is no rule that says you have to play full chords. You could try to play part chords and quickly fill in the key notes with your fingers. In another post here, I talked about a blues player who only used his thumb. He has his own band and plays payed gigs so if he can do it, you should be able to get something going.Keep working at it and you will find a way.
allthumbs

Kirk Lorange · #6 February 14th, 2005

Hmmmm?! I really can't think of anything other than having a custom neck made that accommodates your size. I'm sure with enough dedication you will come up with ways around most musical problems, but there will always be times when you don't need that overlapping going on.

Sorry I can't help more.

Kirk

allthumbs · #7 April 21st, 2005

I just had a thought. Buy a 7 string and have a six string bridge and nut made for it.cheapest way to go for a wide neck,non custom

Spyder F16 · #8 April 22nd, 2005

7-string acoustic? I havnt seen many of those...

allthumbs · #9 April 23rd, 2005

They are more common as electrics but, accustics are out there. Another thought is a brazilian 10 string modded.
look at this one

http://www.wwbw.com/Giannini-SEVILHA...-i159306.music

allthumbs · #10 April 23rd, 2005

This seems may be the answer. Thanks Larry

"It is possible to mod a 12 into a 6 but it does require a bit of intelligent planning and recutting a new nut. One also needs to choose the 6 pin holes he/she will use.

If he's really serious a luthier would make short work of this, and at way less cost than a set of diamond nut files, nut shaping file and nut slot starting files...and if a luthier does this, they will likely be correct from the beginning.

I have a friend with a damaged finger tip (it is huge at the tip) and ''farmer'' hands. He would do well with one of these."

Larry J

skywise · #11 April 25th, 2005

Thanks allthumbs & Spyder! Indeed, your suggestions seem very promising. I'll investigate my possibilities locally and let you know what I find out. But, you've definitely given me reason to hope.

best,
skywise

allthumbs · #12 April 25th, 2005

a little more info from larry. I hope this works for you.

Hi...
If you just leave the lower pitched set in place you will have a gap on the low side of the neck. It will work fine and sound ok, but you only pick up a part of the space available. You are probably right to just try it by removing the high ones and seeing if it gives enough finger space.

It's the old 12 string player in me, and the desire to gain space for somebody's big fingers without the guitar looking like it's cobbled...''
You can maximize the string spacing so much more with a new nut, by moving 11 to the 12 spot, leaving 1 as 1 and then dividing up the space for the other strings evenly. In fact with some 12 string guitars you could probably move the outside strings a tweak further out, and then have a lot more space to work with.

The 12 string nut ''pair'' slots are cut so close together you cannot just widen the original highest one to fit your new bass string without splitting out the nut somewhere. In fact, unless it is a fairly good 12, the nut is likely made of plastic. The new nut slots need to be aligned with the bridge pin holes you choose, which will require experimentation unless you like strings travelling obliquely down the neck instead of parallel. (without a new bridge or filling/redrilling bridge pin holes there will be a tiny bit of obliqueness).

You want the strings to be fairly evenly spaced in the nut (some luthiers allow a bit more for the 4, 5, & 6 strings since they are larger), and both E's to end up where the original outside slots were cut.

You will likely need to reintonate the saddle as well.

Larry J