Can I fix it?

D-Dawn · #1 January 3rd, 2007

Well here's some rather large photo's of the classical my FIL gave me at Christmas...I took it to the local shop and they don't do this type of work and would have to send it off to fix...my problem is they want way too much $$ for what little the guitar is worth monetarily...is it possible to fix at home?
The only problem I forsee running into is finding something to clamp it with after figuring out the right type of glue! I would like it to be playable one day...any suggestions?

I've included detail shots so you can see how much of the wood is left stuck to the back of the bridge and how much is left on the body...I didn't think it was too bad, but still have to figure out the right way of going about this project.

I included a pic of the tuning keys as I thought they were quite unique

Not too bad for almost 30 years old!!

Justapicker · #2 January 3rd, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by D-Dawn

Well here's some rather large photo's of the classical my FIL gave me at Christmas...I took it to the local shop and they don't do this type of work and would have to send it off to fix...my problem is they want way too much $$ for what little the guitar is worth monetarily...is it possible to fix at home?
The only problem I forsee running into is finding something to clamp it with after figuring out the right type of glue! I would like it to be playable one day...any suggestions?

I've included detail shots so you can see how much of the wood is left stuck to the back of the bridge and how much is left on the body...I didn't think it was too bad, but still have to figure out the right way of going about this project.

I included a pic of the tuning keys as I thought they were quite unique

Not too bad for almost 30 years old!!

It looks fixable to me. What I'd do is try and find a luthier or even a violin repair guy in the area and let them do it.
If you want to do it yourself, some wood glue or horsehide glue and some C clamps should do the job. Just make certain you have it placed exactly in the right spot or it'll never intonate properly.

mcknett · #3 January 3rd, 2007

It looks like a fun project - you are right about the biggest challange, the clamps. When I was working on my $2 twelve string, I had a welder friend make something for me. It did the job, but hindsight...I would go to stewmac.com and buy some soundhole clamps. It would have made those moments when the glue starts to set less harrowing. (the 5" ones are 12.95 each - with a $2.00 each discount if you buy three)

Check out frets.com for a "how to" lesson (thanks to Les..aka LCJones for that tip!)

Good luck and keep us informed!!!

D-Dawn · #4 January 3rd, 2007

LoL my husband is a welder....maybe he'll make me some! Thanks all! As I said before this will be a DIY project as the guitar isn't really worth much $$...I just happened to marry the original owner so even if it ends up as wall art (*gasp*) it'll still be special to me

mcknett · #5 January 3rd, 2007

Payment terms sound agreeable on the clamp

You can show him the modified "eagle beak" on my thread - I'd suggest the ability swivel the clamp heads back and forth or allow them to fit snuggly in some sort of caul. It would allow the full surface of the clamp to contact the bridge and top. I found mine tended to sit on an edge which made for an uneven application. (I took the bridge back off and glued it a second time allowing for the distribution)

I'm rambling...but I had fun and learned some valuable lessons for the next time.

Just have fun!

fly135 · #6 January 3rd, 2007

You could drill two small holes in the bridge and top. Glue the bridge to the top and use machine screws and nuts to bolt it togeather. After it's all dried take out the screws and fill the holes with matching wood filler.

BTW, I just bought a Yamaha Classical from Guitar Center a couple weeks ago. I absolutely love playing it. The nylon strings have a very sweet tone and are easy on the fingers.

Oh yeah, if you are concerned that the glue may not hold, then use some countersunk screws and leave them in. Although I think the nylon wouldn't stress the glue too much, and should work with the screws removed. Don't forget to use washers too!

D-Dawn · #7 January 3rd, 2007

I was wondering about that as well, fly...Seeing as it isn't a top o the line guitar, I thought about screwing the bridge down as well...but if you don't think nylon would stress it much I think I'll avoid putting any holes in it.

I've had my eye on a few classicals lately, but this was a nice suprise freebie! The best kind in my book!

allthumbs · #8 January 3rd, 2007

Look for an identical bridge on the net unless you want the old bridge back on for sentimental reasons. Easier to fill in and sand down where the old bridge was that trying to fit the old one back on like a jigsaw puzzle piece.

D-Dawn · #9 January 3rd, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcknett

Payment terms sound agreeable on the clamp

LOL he OWES me...

D-Dawn · #10 January 3rd, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by allthumbs

Look for an identical bridge on the net unless you want the old bridge back on for sentimental reasons. Easier to fill in and sand down where the old bridge was that trying to fit the old one back on like a jigsaw puzzle piece.

The old one seems to fit nicely now that all of those tiny pieces of wood are gone from it...its a much harder wood than the body and cleaned up nicely without changing the shape or thickness of it in anyway.
What I need to find is a new saddle...this one is in 2 pieces and chipped in many places...anyone want to tell me how I measure to order one of those???

Justapicker · #11 January 3rd, 2007

You should probably be able to pick up a saddle blank at almost any guitar shop. Use feeler gauges to measure the width, and a ruler to measure the length. You want it to fit snugly but not so tightly you can't remove it.

Don't worry about the height yet.
After you shape it to fit (sandpaper and/or files!) put it in and string the guitar. If the action is higher than you want, loosen the strings and sand it down. You want the bottom to be as close to perfectly flat as possible, so put sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the bottom until you remove the desired amount of material. Don't try and remove a whole bunch at once, you might overshoot your mark. Check action with saddle in place again and repeat if necessary.

allthumbs · #12 January 3rd, 2007

Do not breath in the dust if you choose to use a bone saddle and sand it down. Not good for the lungs at all.

mcknett · #13 January 3rd, 2007

Our friend at frets.com has a great guide for fitting the saddle. For the twelve string I got a TUSQ saddle which only required a tiny bit of sanding to fit the bridge. You could measure the pieces to get width and height - length if you have all the pieces.

D-Dawn · #14 January 3rd, 2007

I've got all the pieces

I think i'll see what they have in my local shop before having to order online tho...

D-Dawn · #15 April 25th, 2007

Ugh...Still haven't fixed this yet..got too busy with moving!
But I got this little guitar back out today to go for it...wish me luck!!