Setting the Tremolo flush with the Body

BillC15 · #1 August 29th, 2007

Hey guys. I have a mexican strat (for those who didn't see my other thread) and I know how to set up a fender style tremolo. There's only one thing about it that I'm fully not sure of, and thats setting the tremolo flush with the body. It's just that Fender tells you to set the tension of the springs equal to the tension of the strings, which makes perfect sense to me. I just don't know how I can be sure if the tension of the springs is equal to the tension of the strings. I don't want any unnecessary tension to be placed on the springs if I can help it. Also, if I'm using .011 gauge strings, would you recommend adding more springs to the three I already have angled toward the center for this kind of tremolo setup?

BillC15 · #2 August 29th, 2007

But even if the trem is flat with the body, couldn't I have accidentally put more tension than needed and not know it (so that the trem is actually pushing against the body)? Also, will I need more springs for this?

fly135 · #3 August 29th, 2007

When he tension on the strings matches the springs then the tremolo will balance. I'm not sure the exact height the back of the trem should be but as Jay says the trem will be level (parallel) with the body. This allows you to vibrato both above and below the normal pitch of the string.

Some people tighten the trem springs to a higher tension than the strings. This still allows them to lower the pitch but the guitar tends to stay in better tune and doesn't detune unbent strings when bending. It's an individual preference.

jdpaz · #4 August 29th, 2007

Just an observation from an engineering dork. The string tension will always equal the spring tension.

The position of the tremolo will be affected by the number of springs, but the tensions will always be balanced.

knight46 · #5 August 29th, 2007

Jay Jay and Fly,
When you change strings with a tremolo do you change one at a time or all at the same time? And do you block the trem when changing?

knight46 · #6 August 29th, 2007

Jay,
Is a traditional the same as a Floyd? I have a Strat copy and I don't think that (think is the operative word) my trem will come out of the body like a Floyd.

fly135 · #7 August 29th, 2007

I remove all the strings when I change them. You don't really have to do much with a traditional strat trem. If you replace with the same gauge string then it should come back to level when it's tuned up. If it's not level then you need to adjust the spring tension by tightening or loosening the screws in the cavity on the back.

I don't block the trem when changing strings. It raises back up as I tune the strings.

"The position of the tremolo will be affected by the number of springs, but the tensions will always be balanced."

The number of springs and the depth of the screws tensioning the springs. I went from 9's to 12's on my Fullerton strat without changing the number of springs.

knight46 · #8 August 29th, 2007

Jay and Fly,
Thanks a bunch guys, much appreciated.

BillC15 · #9 August 30th, 2007

On the tremolo topic I have another question. When screwing in the tremolo bar, how far should it be screwed in. I ask this because when I screw mine in, it's loose until a certain point and then all of a sudden it gets tight. I mean, I can still go past that point but should I? Is it possible to overtighten the bar? After all, when I look at it from the back there is still more room for it and there are more threads in the hole. If I don't go past that point where it becomes tight, there's play in the bar. I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I just want to be on the safe side.

fly135 · #10 August 30th, 2007

It's likely going to be loose. I get some tension so it doesn't flop by putting plumbers (teflon) tape on the threads before I screw it in. You have to replace the tape every so often. Of you can just let it flop and swing freely.

BillC15 · #11 August 30th, 2007

I found that if I screw it past that tighter point, the tight point is farther now. In other words, the tight point was when the bar was pointing towards the floor. When I tightened it past that point, it is now loose while the bar is pointing towards the floor and the new tight point is when the bar pointing away from the neck. What's going on here?

fly135 · #12 August 30th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillC15

I found that if I screw it past that tighter point, the tight point is farther now. In other words, the tight point was when the bar was pointing towards the floor. When I tightened it past that point, it is now loose while the bar is pointing towards the floor and the new tight point is when the bar pointing away from the neck. What's going on here?

You are probably cutting the threads by screwing it past the tight point. Probably no damage but you may want to stop tightening it further.

Thanks Jay, teflon tape is what I use on mine. In fact I just retaped the bar on my strat last night.

ozboomer · #13 September 10th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by fly135

When he tension on the strings matches the springs then the tremolo will balance. I'm not sure the exact height the back of the trem should be but as Jay says the trem will be level (parallel) with the body. This allows you to vibrato both above and below the normal pitch of the string.

Being a complete novice about doing guitar set-ups, I often wonder about the tremolo.

Referring to the Fender web site (see http://www.fender.com/support/stratocaster.php), they say:

"...Allowing the bridge to float freely (no tension on the tremolo arm) using the claw screws in the tremolo cavity, adjust the bridge to your desired angle—Fender spec is a 1/8" (3.2 mm) gap at rear of bridge."

Now, if you look at the attached photo, it seems to me that the bridge here is actually 'almost' hard on the face of the guitar, which is not what the above spec. describes. With the bridge 'flat' on the body, I would guess the tuning is probably a bit more stable... but would it mean the tremolo wouldn't work properly as there's precious little 'rotation' available on the bridge?

fly135 · #14 September 10th, 2007

I was wrong about the term being parallel to the body. The front towards the neck is a fixed height. It should be adjusted so that the rear is 1/8" off the body. You don't need to worry about the front. In the case of the picture you could only bend down. Some people like them that way.

ozboomer · #15 September 10th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by fly135

...The front towards the neck is a fixed height. It should be adjusted so that the rear is 1/8" off the body. You don't need to worry about the front. In the case of the picture you could only bend down. Some people like them that way.

Hmm... Okie..

Still, providing the 'balance' of the springs against the strings is 'correct', there shouldn't really be any difference in the stability of the tuning, at least in theory? I mean, is it any more 'stable' if the bridge is 'grounded' against the body?