Truss rod adjustment?

Newbie06 · #1 July 28th, 2004

Im pretty new to playing guitar, I have a yamaha acoustic f-310p. When changing the strings I removed all of them at once without thinking. It was stringless for less than a day before I had relized what I had done. I know youre not supposed to remove all the strings so the proper tension in the neck can be maintained. Now it seems that I can never get it tuned correctly, would this be a problem with my Truss rod? Should I have it professionally adjusted or is this something I can do by myself?

All help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, clueless. :?

Darkhodge · #2 August 28th, 2005

I would not recommend you adjusting the truss rod yourself because you could end up breaking it in which case you would basically need a new neck.

However personally I don't really think that after a day your neck would be damaged from removing all the strings (correct me if I'm wrong) - considering the fact that you need to loosen all the strings to adjust the truss rod anyway.

One thing you could do is actually check neck relief on your guitar. If you don't know what this means or how to do it check out this page:

http://www.igdb.co.uk/pages/guitar_setup/truss_rod.htm

Hope that helps,

Hodge

Spyder F16 · #3 August 29th, 2005

It's not the fact that you loosened them and removed them all at once. When I change my guitar strings, I always take all of them off first then put a new set on.

The reason why you cannot stay tuned is that they are new strings. If you have not properly stretched them for a bit, they will have problems staying in tune until they stretch on their own.

Darkhodge · #4 September 4th, 2005

Lol! That's so obvious it didn't even cross my mind! :o

Yeah just tune up your strings, strum them a bit, and then tune up again. Keep doing that a few times and it'll sort your problem out.

Hodge

Kirk Lorange · #5 September 4th, 2005

You can even go one step further: when you first restring your guitar, grab each string at the mid-point, which is the 12th fret, and give it a few good hard yanks away from the guitar ... you can usually pull it out a couple of inches. Of course, don't pull so hard you rip the bridge off, or slice your fingers off, but a good firm tug. What this does is stretch the string quickly rather than have it stretch over a few days, which is what happens. Also, if your strings are pegged into the bridge, it will ensure that the ball end of the string is right up against the end of the peg, secure right from word go. There's nothing worse than having a string all of a sudden give way and loosen because it's finally decided to seat itself properly under the bridge pegs.

Darkhodge · #6 September 5th, 2005

Yeah thats the method I normally use!

Spyder F16 · #7 September 5th, 2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirk

You can even go one step further: when you first restring your guitar, grab each string at the mid-point, which is the 12th fret, and give it a few good hard yanks away from the guitar ... you can usually pull it out a couple of inches. Of course, don't pull so hard you rip the bridge off, or slice your fingers off, but a good firm tug. What this does is stretch the string quickly rather than have it stretch over a few days, which is what happens. Also, if your strings are pegged into the bridge, it will ensure that the ball end of the string is right up against the end of the peg, secure right from word go. There's nothing worse than having a string all of a sudden give way and loosen because it's finally decided to seat itself properly under the bridge pegs.

I bet a good number of people have knocked teeth out by that :shock:

Pete · #8 September 5th, 2005

..ah..so thats what Jimmie Hendrix was doing, all those years ago..
Fillipinos and most SE Asians use the Locktight method when they restring ie: the string goes through the hole in the machine head twice, except in the case of the bottom two, where it is applied as normal. The advantasges are that there is minimum slippage, meaning a string replaced between songs during a gig holds it's pitch, and it is replaced far faster.
Try suggesting this method to your friends, and discover just how much musical PC and hide-bound traditionalism is present in the guitar playing community

Jason · #9 November 11th, 2005

Just a note from a rookie guitar tech...

If you do feel your truss rod needs adjustment (and you've mustered the courage to do so) I always think in these terms;

Tighening the rod (turning clockwise) works against your string tension and will arch the neck back lowering your action.
Lossening the rod (counter clockwise) bows the neck because it allows the string tension pull the neck forward.

Ok now the huge disclaimer.
Dont try this unless you KNOW it needs to be done.
Get a pro to do it if at all possible.
Do it 1/4 turn then tune up....check it...repeat if needed.
Different makes might work very different than what I have discribed above.
Check out the link provided by Hodge so you know what your shooting for.....not just guessing. Its not just about low action....relief is required.
Dont check your neck using a straight edge without strings being on and properly tensioned. That being said.....once you have tensioned strings they are perfectly straight...use them your guide. Straight edges can scratch!

The opinions expressed above are solely those of the writer who assumes no responsiblity etc etc .
ps. Get a pro to do it ;-)

Jason